We start from Seoni around 4.00 in the afternoon. It’s still quite bright and hot being mid-June. Monsoon, I am told has got delayed. I am not aware where exactly we are going. I am only aware that we are going into some forest area and we are staying overnight. Shashi Malik, my forester friend, tells me, “just enjoy”, meaning ‘just chill’.
Our first halt is Dhuma, a small town on Seoni- Jabalpur highway (Madhya Pradesh). It’s at a locally famous sweet shop for Gulaab Jamun with Rabadi. This is real delicacy but GJ, almost the size of a grenade, is loaded with sugary syrup, and pure thickened milk Rabadi. The dish is as good as a bomb of a ton of calories. Nevertheless, I enjoy as I have somewhat sweet tooth. It’s certainly quite filling. Shashi offers tea later, but I politely decline. I want the taste GJ & R to linger on for some time.
After another 30-40 minutes of driving on four-lane monotonous highway, we turn right and are now driving on a single-lane road in hinterland. There are small hamlets, few and far. There is no other vehicle to be seen. What is amazing is the forest. It must be 80 per cent dense forest, largely teak. I can see that presently this looks like 20 per cent dense forest because of leaf fall – straight teak bolls without canopy. Its monotonous creamy-greyish spread – miles and miles of it. Soon in monsoon, this will be all green and look like 100 per cent dense forest.
It’s late evening. I suggest to Shashi, “Let us switch of Air Conditioner and roll down windows. Have some fresh air.” Shashi agrees. As we roll down the windows, in comes somewhat hot air, but fresh, mixed with fragrance of the forest – unpolluted. I wonder, I may not fall sick, for these days, I breathe ‘severally’ polluted air in Delhi and my system has got acclimatised to dirty stuff.
Shashi tell me, “We are passing through Shikara Range of North Seoni Forest Division.”
While we are breezing through the forested landscape, it is almost night fall when we suddenly halt at a place where half a dozen government vehicles are lined up and the place is buzzing with people. I notice, this is a huge complex, with lot of backyard area and lawns in the front. The building is quite big, built on a six feet raised platform, with two floors comprising five big size suits and a dining hall. It cannot be called a Forest Rest House in the traditional context. This is in fact called, Payli Jungle Camp. I can vaguely see a water body beyond but cannot make much of it.
Shashi tells me, “There is a long story behind this complex, built may be a decade ago. This is in compensation for Old Payli FRH. To cut the long story short, the old one got into the submergence area of Bargi Dam created on the Narmada river.”
At the Camp, I get to know Gaurav Choudhary, DFO of North Seoni Forest Division, and M K Sapra, PCCF (CAMPA) who is visiting the region to inspect the works. We spend some time together and in fact later dine together.
It is in the morning, I realise how amazingly wonderful place this is. There is huge Bargi Dam back water spread in front of the Camp which is zig-zagging into undulating hills and hillocks. In the morning Sun, this is silver sheet with ripples painted. There is forest all around. An old road intrudes into the water body for long to Payli Island. There are several islands one of which houses British time Old FRH. As crow flies, the Bargi dam is about 12 km from here though by road it is more than four times i.e. about 50 km!
Around the complex, I can see some play area for kids. A nature trail (Environmental Awareness Trekking Trail) has been developed for tourists to have some walks through adjacent forest and reach the islands and water-body. In fact, the Camp is being managed as Eco-tourism facility. Later, I look at the Madhya Pradesh Eco-Development Board’s web page and this describes the Payli Eco Complex as
Backwater of Bargi dam forms a huge lake having enormous potential for tourism development. Realizing this fact, Madhya Pradesh Ecotourism Department Board is introducing “PAYLI” a small village sharing the backwater on its edges, just a 50 km drive from Bargi dam one can enjoy the true beauty of nature and many nature based activities such as:- Trekking, Bird Watching, Waterfall, Boating & Adventure based activities It offers accommodation in Camping Tents & Rest house, Canteen facility. Surrounding area of Payli is also good for nature tourism which includes bird watching, mammals sighting.
Franking, this facility is in making and a visitor keen to rough it out in nature, can certainly enjoy.
After breakfast we start back. On the way back, Payli is spread large on my mind. I can understand, Payli Jungle Camp has been named after the Payli village nearby, but I wonder why the Payli village has been named so. I know, Payli does not have a meaning as it is. I feel, it can be distortion of Payali (Bowl) or Paayal (Anklet, worn by many Indian women) and to conclude, I may say, the name is closer to Payali as the landscape is bowl shaped valley with hills all around.