Wall of Night

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The name sounds exotic – ‘Kali Bheet Ka Jungle’. Tucked away in the backyard of Central India, it’s part of the Khandwa Forest Division in Madhya Pradesh. My forester friend, Anil Nagar is taking me around. We arrive at Amaliya Forest Rest House. Oh! This is different. I have been used to seeing British style FRH in most the forests I visit. Here the whole dimension is massive – long driveway, huge lawns, the building raised 7-8 feet from the ground, double storied building with two-luxurious suites on each floor along with huge halls –lounge on the ground and dinning on the upper floor.

I enter the suite and amazed at 20 feet by 20 feet room with 8 feet by 10 feet bath and huge balcony overlooking a rivulet. This may have been built 2-3 years ago but looks as if done yesterday and the quality of workmanship is visible along with the tasteful layout, design and furnishing. In fact, this is far different from generally shoddy and poor works of the forest department in building and construction. I like the place immensely.

We start for forest visit around 4.30 pm. It’s still lot of light. Yadav, the local forest guard accompanies us. As we drive, my first question to him is “Why this forest called Kali Bheet?”  Yadav explains Kali is for Raat i.e. night and Bheet is for wall. The reason is that this is a high density, sparsely habituated forest area. In good old days, with virtually no vehicle or human traffic, the tribal found this as a dark wall even during the day.

Yadav first takes us to a medicinal plant rich area. Presently the entire ground is covered with greenery which includes herbs, shrubs, saplings, grass, weeds… Incidentally, we find it difficult to locate medicinal plants! Yadav does manage to locate few. I take note of Hindi names and take some photos. Later I find, Hathjod or Hadjod (Cissus quadrangularis)  is for  joining bone; Vajradanti (Barleria prionitis) is for teeth; Yam (Dioscorea species), is used as food and for manufacture of steroid; Bhui Amla (Phyllanthus niruri) is reported to be useful in Hepatitis-B, Jaundice, Cirrhosis of liver, intestinal infection, diabetes, chronic fever, loss of appetite and what not.

I come across a sign board indicated this forest patch to be a Medicinal Plant Conservation Area (MPCA). This was a popular concept in late 1990s of identifying medicinal plant rich area in forest and demarking 200 ha for conservation. There was a project being supported by UNDP, which included creation and management of such areas in the country. The forest departments were enthusiastic as funds were available. With the end of scheme, the MPCA is no better than the forest it has been. The sign board is rolling in dust!  The glare and lime-light of MPCA is no more, and Kali Bheet is back to normal. It is back to local people for use and abuse.

f course, a stream besides the MPCA is live because of monsoon. The water is crystal clear and gushing along. We can see small fishes, crabs, frogs and even a small snake in the steam.

I am told, the locals heavily depend on the forest and all the wildlife including deer, fish, crab… end up in people’s stomach! People have almost eaten the golden goose.

We drive another few kilometres and come to a patch where there is a pond. I can see that department has created some recreational facility around. And Yadav shows us the reason. Hidden in the woods is wonderland of era gone by. There is a bawadi (step well), there is temple, and there is fort – all in ruins. The walls and virtually the whole place have been dug out by locals in past, in the belief that there may be some hidden treasure. Yadav tells me that local tribe has claimed right over this site under the Forest Right Act. Incidentally, I notice that the rightful owner, the forest, has already claimed the site back and there is vegetation all over and around the structures!!

Forest around is mysterious entangled mass. Oh! I side step. There is huge pile of fresh cow dung.  I feel, have I stepped on this, there would have been no way to clean the shoes and I may have to walk back bare foot. Cattle have not left even this abode of gods, kings and queens and probably tiger alone. It’s so disgusting, and worrying as well. Much of the forests in India are going down in cows’ stomach or in firewood stoves.

It’s getting dark and we decide to return. Even though it is September, the weather is pleasant and cool. Slight chill is there in the air.

In the night, we go to bed around 11. We have the luxury of a suite each. After a long day, I switch off light and lie down on the bed. Soon, I feel some big ant crawling on me. I remove this. Then another, another… I get up and put on light. Oh, there are quite of lot of them moving in few streams from right of left on bed rest and around pillows. I clear them all with bed sheet and lie down again. I am about to doze off when I feel some more ants crawling on me. I again get up and put a light on. Oh my god! The big ants are all over the bed. They seem to be busy in themselves with least concern of my presence.

I take a tough decision. I leave the bed for ants. I pick up a sheet, blanket and pillow and stretch on sofa. It is uncomfortable but there is no way out in the middle of night.

In the morning I wonder, ‘What’s wrong?’ Being a wildlifer, I realise that probably these large ants, also called carpenter ants have their nests somewhere in the bed. It is known that they chew out galleries in dead and damp wood to nest, particularly in forest areas.

In the morning, we go out around 7 am. We are driving on the State Highway No. 26 towards Betul. The forest is lush green and all washed up – shining and fresh – because of the monsoon. Anil notices something on the road side and asks the driver to back about 100m. Yes, he has certainly noticed a unique bulbous flower. Neither Anil nor I have ever seen this. Yadav tells us, ‘this is jungli (wild) arbi.’  As we are viewing and photographing it, I notice another herb standing tall with beautiful light purple bell shaped flowers with one portion being dark purple. Yadav tells us, ‘this is jungli til (wild sesame)’. We are happy that we are watching these two new plants.

Later, in a rapid internet search I find that Jungli Arbi is Dwarf Gonatanthus which is medicinal. It is reported that ‘paste from the rhizome is applied on the chest for chest pain. Juice from crushed leaves is used as an antibiotic for wounds in humans and animals.’ It is called Jungli arbi because the leaf of the plant is very much similar to the vegetable arbi commonly eaten in India. As for the ‘Jungli til’ the species is probably, Sesamum orientale, while the cultivated til is Sesamum indicum.

About four kilometres down the road at one bend in the road, Anil asks the driver to stop the vehicle. He is admiring the diversity in the forest. He tells me, “this is real rich forest. See the diversity.” As we walk for about 200 metres he identifies about a dozen trees species some of which I noted are Anjan (Hardwickia binata), Salai (Boswellia serrata), Gurjon (Lannea coromandelica), Haldu (Haldina cordifolia), Dhawra (Anogeissus latifolia) besides teak /Sagon (Tectona grandis). He is impressed and so I am.

Later, we take a forest trail and decide to walk for a while. We leisurely explored the forest. Spider webs are, of course, conspicuous and interesting. One which is large has the Giant Wood Spider in the middle, commonly seen in sal and teak forest. There are smaller ones also– the quirky one is a conical, funnel shaped web generally on the ground new the tree base or small mound. Incidentally, this spider is called funnel weaver!

Anil is keen on butterflies. He gets interested in one and looks closely. Yadav says, ‘It’s one wing is broken. Probably some lizard may have tried to kill it.’ Further exploration reveals what I have never seen. Anil lifts the butterfly with soft hold of thumb and a finger. Oh! Amazing. It is yet to born completely. It’s so called damaged wing is still in the pupa while rest has emerged out. Pupa shell is still holding part of the wing and body of the butterfly. It’s not fully air borne. We live it in peace, perched on a herb.

As it starts getting hot, we return back. I must say, the forests have unending hidden treasure to make us wonder. Already I am planning for the next travel.