An Emerald in Middle of Aravalli Forest

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I start from Delhi at 5 in the morning. Take a train to Jaipur and arrive at my friend, Sunayan Bhai’s home around noon. (Incidentally, Sunayan is a retired forester and has been director of Sariska Tiger Reserve.)  We take quick lunch, and in an hour, hit the road. The road is wonderful. Sunayan’s SUV is wonderful. Age old friend’s company is wonderful.  Vodka is wonderful…

We are driving in the South-Western part of Rajasthan. The weather is not harsh. We by-pass the important city, Ajmer, and drive another 100 km to reach our destination, Raoli Forest Rest House (FRH) around 5 in the evening. The very sight of a Baradari at one corner of the sprawling lawn of the Rest House is mesmerizing. Soft evening sunlight is making it further conspicuous.

I no more feel that it has been a long day. I no more feel tired. We do not enter the rest house and head straight to Baradari. Our friend and host, Dashrath Rathore, Raoli Forest Range Officer, has already anticipated it.  Four Mudhas (local chairs) and a table are already in place. They seem to be inviting us.

FRH ground is some 40-50 metre above the other features in the valley. It’s a picture perfect composition. We are overlooking a huge, almost circular talab or lake. The crystal clear water, and reflection of snow white clouds and clear blue sky, and hills and hillocks in the surrounding, holds my attention for several minutes to begin with. Dashrath tells us that this is called Barwahna Talab (i.e. 12th Lake). The name is true to truth – there are 11 lakes above this lake! A local stream has been dammed to store water at appropriate places from the origin in the hills above. In fact, right below us is the dam wall of the Barwahna Talab and the water is flowing down in the stream. The interesting feature of the dam I notice is a circular drain of about two feet diameter for draining extra water before the dam wall – this relaxes the pressure of water on the wall! Right opposite us, in the north are some white buildings amid all green surrounding forest. Dashrath tells us. “This is an Ashram (abode for saints and the like).” This is interesting and makes a good picture since the white painted building in all green environment breaks the monotony.

In the east, the Sun is slowly going down. The stream is zigzagging in the middle of valley. I do not know, if this will reach terwahna talab (13th lake)! I am not interested in facts and figures right away. The colour of the sky is changing every minute until it is painted in heavenly hues – gold, yellow, orange, red, maroon… I am lost. Friends are sitting around and talking. I am beyond the conversation. I take few pictures from my iphone – yes, it gives pictures in low light and good ones at that. At least, one can record the scene and share. Most appropriate line of a Hindi song comes to my mind – Ye Kon Chitrakar Hai (Who is this painter?)

Soon, it is night. Soon, it is time to party. Soon, it is time to cheers. Some other friends and officials too have joined the party including the Assistant Conservator of Forests, Mangal Singh. It is mostly exchange of notes, chitchat and gossip. In between, I raise a simple question – How is this rest house named Raoli?

Nobody has a clue. I try to guide them – Is it the name of some village around? Is it the name of some temple around? Is it the name of some famous local deity? Is it the name of some famous local person?  Is it the name of some famous local ruler? Nothing emerges. The foresters are embarrassed since they are unable address a simple question related to their area. To ease out the tense environment, I also start thinking aloud, and I think I come up with the right answer. The forests are all Aravalli hills. The name Aravalli has been shortened and in local pronunciation it has become Raoli over a period of time.

In middle of all the hu-ha and cheers, Mangal tells me, “FRH Visitors’ Register is a very important document of wildlife history of the forests around.” Oh! That’s interesting.

I wake up early and get ready by 7. The Register is on my mind. I get hold of this and read through the pages. The browning and crumbling pages have been laminated and re-bound together. I do take photos of some important pages of the Register. The period recorded is 1932 to 2000 – ¾ quarters of 20th century!

The greatest surprise that emerges is that the forests have been inhabited by tigers and also crocodiles once upon a time. The Register reveals gory pictures of the time gone by! The main villain emerges is one Kunwar Keshav Sen of Kharwa. Every year or two, there is entry by him, proudly claiming killing of tigers. He has killer many tigers in the area. There is one unbelievable entry by him in 1953, “Was very lucky to shoot two tigers in one shot. Killing them both stone dead on the spot with a ‘470 soft nose bullet’ – A very rare occurrence.” His last entry in the Register of tiger shoot is of 1955 proclaiming, “Shot a tiger in Satukhera Block with 470 H.V. –  9 feet 2 inches.” Seems like, he has been ready with gun as soon as he came to know of a tiger in these forests. It seems, he ensure no tiger survives here. Presently, there is no tiger here.

Finally, on the lighter side, the Register records an entry by a forester, ‘I have broken a plate. I would replace this’!


Post Script : Raoli FRH is one of the FRHs in Todgarh-Raoli Wildlife Sanctuary. The Sanctuary lies off Delhi-Udaipur National Highway No. 8, in middle of the Aravalli Hill Range, and spreads over Ajmer, Pali and Rajsamand districts of the Rajasthan State of India.


Pushp Jain